Saturday, January 17, 2009

Chapter 1

Jan 15-17: Days 1- 3

The actual flight over to Osaka from the Gold Coast was fairly uneventful, apart from one moment where the plane actually nosedived quite violently and without previous turbulence. It scared the absolute shit out of me and there were various womanly screams for that moment where I genuinely thought the engines had failed or something. It was all a bit suspicious actually. The plane recovered within a couple of seconds, just as violently, but no announcement was made at all from the captain, which is unusual because they like to tell you about everything else including the colour of their underwear. I have a feeling he stuffed up for a second or something and didn‘t want to admit it :-).

I was very glad when the flight ended. Kansai Airport sits on a man-made island of compressed concrete and steel on top of the city‘s bay. It‘s about 50 kms from the city and to take a taxi it‘s estimated to cost around $300 with our current exchange rate. In japan, the trains are incredibly organised and run non-stop. They are also relatively cheap compared to the prices of other goods and services in the country. I took a JR train from the airport to my hotel, which is a Ryokan (Japanese-style hostel), and it cost about 1000 yen, or $20 at a rough conversion.

The Japanese people are very interesting. My understanding of the elements that make up their culture is still developing, but they seem to have a mixture of old and new western behaviours and traditional & modern japanese behaviours. As it`s winter at the moment, there are not a lot of foreigners around in Osaka, and people tend to stare at me as I walk around. I almost sense that they`re thinking ``What are you doing here?``, and not in a bad way, but just genuinely wondering why I would come to what most locals believe is a poor man`s version of Tokyo when there`s no cherry blossom. On first appearance the people seem not to want to talk to you, but if you ask them something they will do whatever they can to help. I`m still working this out, but I think they are genuinely friendly people whom try not bother tourists out of politeness, but love to help if called upon.

The language barrier is also really apparent. Although their culture is flooded with western products and advertising, finding someone who has even Okay English is harder than I thought it would be, particular outside of the central area of Osaka. Nonetheless, communicating can be made easier by learning a few of the common phrases and adding some pointing and the like.

Everything is so organised. People on duty for their work are dressed in strict uniform and even the movement and gestures are weel practived. Jay-walking doesn`t occur either. People are very law abiding and there are lots of police on foot and traffic controllers supplementing the traffic lights to ensure compliance. There are bicycles absolute everywhere. People ride them not so much on the roads, but on the footpaths, and park them in masses of bicycle stacks. Most of them wouldn`t be locked or chained, soI get the feeling that thefts just don`t really occur, which would seem to be right when considering the very low level of visible crime.

Speaking of crime, the Yakuza clan was actually established in Osaka and today continues to trade is modern organised crime. I was reading about it and their main streams of income are protitution (a big trade), gambling and corporate extortion. On the first night I arrived, even though I was tired, I wanted to just go for a walk and get some more fresh (and extremely cold) air. My journey of a couple of hours took me, unexpectedly, right through the middle of what I think was a type of hooker district. At first glance, these streets look like typical residential (2 storey) joined japanese apartments, but with lanterns lit outside the front. When you walk past you realise that there`s no front wall on these places! I remember the first time I walked past, I saw an old lady smoking what I thought was by herself out the front. She shouts ``Douzo``, which means ``Please, help yourself`` and beckons you over. Not knowing what she was talking to me for, I walked over thinking she might want a chat. As I saw the full view of the small room she was sitting in, there was a very young girl,probably 18-19, kneeling down in a schoolgirl skirt and top and pigtail, with all her makeup done, and a sweet smile on her face. I quickly realised what was going on, but I had never heard of this particular setup before, so I was quite shocked and walked off after politely declining. As I walked around about 4 blocks worth of these places,I noticed there was one of these little places for probably every third house. My estimate is that there‘d be around 50-100 of these places in the small district. The japanese men drive down the lanes and stop quickly at each place to see if they like what‘s on offer before deciding to stop or keep going. So I‘m pretty sure that on my first night in Japan I walked through a Yakuza-owned hooker district. Yikes!!

Yesterday (day 2) was a pretty big day. I got up about 9 and got ready to go and was out by about 10 am local time (Japan is 2 hours behind Melbourne). I headed up to the north of the main City precinct and got off at Osaka-jokoen Station. This translates to Osaka Castle Station or something. So I headed to the grounds of the castle and I was amazed at the sheer scale of the property as a whole. The perimeter is lined by a deep moat, and the other side of the moat is adorned by massive stone walls. The walls are like something out of a videogame, and very authentic looking. Some of the pieces of stone in the walls weigh over 100 tons and are simply amazingly put together. The castle itself sits on a hill in the rough center of the grounds. It is quite majestic - green, white and gold. Inside the castle is a multi-floored display of the history of the castle, including battles that were fought in various centuries on the site. Very cool.

From the castle I headed to Osaka Museum of History. Self explanatory really,some of the highlights included minature models of the original City site, and these are typically detailed.I also really enjoyed looking at the japanese armour and weaponry on display, although I still hope to see a lot more as I travel the country.

Last night I headed to a bar in the main bar precinct of the city. It is called Zerro Bar and is a popular meeting spot for Gaijin (western foreigners). People are all there for the same thing; to meet others that make them feel less homesick, and I quickly got chatting with an American guy who now lives in Korea but decided to come check out Osaka and Nara for a few days. Then we met some expat Kiwis who were just there looking for a night out, and they took us to a proper club a few blocks down. The club we went to has a dungeon type theme, with little rooms carved out of the stone, where people walk down into them to smoke and drink. Oh yes, smoking is everywhere in the city - much more than in Australian cities, and they are allowed to smoke inside most establishments, including retail shops, train stations and bars. The roof of the dungeon style toilets was about 6 foot high, meaning I had to crouch as I walked along a little walkway and crouch at the urinal.

My new mates were pretty drunk by the time we left at 5 am; much more so than I was. The bar had a 3500 yen cover charge (about 60 bucks) for men, but drinks were free and you could have as much as you wanted to. This included spirits and lolly drinks, so overall it was pretty good value. I walked back to the hotel from the bar and went to bed after that, and slept a lot today.

Today I was pretty tired. I woke up at about midday and went down to the public bath in the hotel. It‘s basically a heated but shallow pool - a big hot bath.It was just me in there, so I just let the heat soak into my sore muscles and relaxed. Very enjoyable.

I also went for another walk and looked at a few buildings, but didn‘t end up going inside the touristy stuff.

Japan is a very cash-based society. I learned quickly not to rely on Mr Credit Card for purchases. You really need to carry around at least 25,000 yen for safety, which is about $500 Australian, because even the hotel that I‘m staying in only accepts cash. This means that I need to go to the ATMs at the big banks or post office and withdraw like that. Doing this is smarter too, because you get a better exchange rate than at the currency exchange shops in airports and trains etc.Travelex, the major currency exchange shop, is a bit of a rip off to be honest, so I won‘t buy any more yen that way. ATM`s are definitely the way to go, but harder to find, so I‘ll just have to carry around a lot of cash.

Ok I‘ve had enough of this blog for now. Hope you enjoyed reading so far. I‘ll probably post again from Kyoto, my next stop, so check back here on probably Tuesday or Wednesday. Cheers. Init.

1 comment:

  1. Hi Russ,
    It sounds as you are having a wonderful time. Keep enjoying & be careful. Maybe bring me home a souvenir of sorts....not expensive tho'
    Love Carmel

    ReplyDelete