Wednesday, January 28, 2009

It's not the size of the camera that counts, it's how you use it!

Sure, we all know that that's what guys with small cameras say, but after my little incident in Roppongi, I've been cut down to size. I'm now forced to use every megapixel of my 3.2 in the old mobile phone, but I'm pretty damn handy with it now ;) .

So where were we? When I regrouped myself in Tokyo, I headed to the Korakuen gardens near the city - simply unbelievable! Picture the ultimate Japanese garden and you're getting close. All the typical stuff - big ponds with fat dopey fish with whiskers, cherry blossom trees (albeit cherry blossomless), winding stone tracks and big ferns, arches and little monuments and temples. Actually there were some Ume trees in blossom, and these are very similar to the cherry variety, but they are plum blossom, and these ones were pink and white, so I got a bit of a kick out of that. Init.

Also checked out Akihabara - the electronics centre of the East. I went inside a building with over 10 floors of electronics and it was quite intimidating, although on close inspection a lot of the stuff wasn't any more advanced than what's available here. From what I can tell, the Japanese like to pump out new products onto their market as soon as new technology is discovered, but this doesn't necessarily mean that they pioneered it. The technology in their mobile phones, NFC, is like an improved version of bluetooth, and they have utilised it to make credit card purchases with a simple swipe over a reader. For instance, rather than buying train tickets, they wave their mobiles over the turnstile at a station and it gets charged to their credit provider. Apparently NFC was discovered by Phillips, a dutch company, and quickly taken up and released by Sony over here. Same goes with other technologies such as VHS, DVD and Blu-ray. The Japanese are so precise with their manufacturing processes that they are able to make such products cheap and very reliable, and hence enjoy enormous global success.

I also had a look at Ueno park, a nice park for a stroll and ponder as you enjoy the various temply stuff dotted around. Nearby is Tanaka cemetery - a relatively touristless, obscure sight in the vein of a garden cemetery. There were a few Mr. Miyagis wandering around, but no teens dressed in skeleton outfits getting their bollocks kicked, which was disappointing. Also had a quick look at Asakusa, home of a massive temple, and a huge lane filled with shops making and selling Japanese sweets. Also saw a Sumo walk past.. so that's..

I came to Hiroshima by night bus on Monday night. Was lucky enough to be seated beside a little shiny-cheeked chubster fluffing all night in his sleep - no shame either, great! Checked into my hotel yesterday morning, slept most of the day, but then went out for dinner - a nice traditional Okonomiyaki, which was really cool. It was yellow noodles fried on the stove in front of you, with egg, bacon, shredded lettuce and bbq sauce, and a pint of beer to wash it down. Nice.

Today I checked out the Atomic Bomb Museum, and suffice to say, it was pretty hard to deal with. I'll post some pictures on facebook when I get home, but it had a good message (peace etc.) and plenty of history lessens, photos, and things left from the aftermath. A tissue was mandatory.

Tomorrow I'm off to Miyajima Island, and this weekend I'll head back to Osaka and spend a bit of time in Nara also.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Yeah I lost my camera, didn't I, ya f...

Yep. Sure did. Went out in Roppongi last night, spent way too much money, and when I got home I realised that my new shiny sexy digital camera was no longer in my jacket. I think it must have been nicked by someone at the nightclub because they had my jacket in the cloakroom, and silly naive me trusts that nightclubs won't steal your cameras when you pay for them to store your jacket for you!!

So that was really upsetting, mainly because many of the photos on the camera were going to make me a world famous photographer when I got home. Honest.

Tokyo has been OK, but there's still a few more things that I want to see, so I'll reserve judgment until I leave for Hiroshima. Yesterday I headed into ANZ's Tokyo branch and met some of the managers there. They have a staff of 56 in Tokyo and 8 in Osaka, and although their products are limited for a Bank in Japan, the professionalism and presentation of the branch was exemplary. I actually got to sit down with the CEO of ANZ Japan, which was a bit of a shock because I've not had the opportunity to meet Australia's CEO to date. He was great and so were some of the other senior executives there - all with excellent English and happy to talk about business and pleasure, so I was really grateful for the opportunity.

I've already amassed a collection of almost 10 business cards, as people here trade them like they're going out of fashion. It's a way to learn a person's name, status and it's like a handshake of goodwill. If you lived here you would have to carry around your own or else you may be perceived as unprofessional.

Oh yeah, and I have a cough and cold too, which is so annoying to travel with, as I can't seem to shake it. I could choose to stay in bed all day until I get better, but then I might as well be at home in Australia if I'm going to rest, so unfortunately seeing the sights comes first and I'll just have to tough it out.

Apart from that I've really enjoyed my time so far. Kyoto was sensational and I wish I could go back and see a few more things that I didn't get time for. Next stop is Hiroshima, which is back down on the south of Honshu. Apparently Hiroshima is another amazing place - 'must see' items include the Atomic Bomb Museum, 'the A-Dome', and Miyajima Island, so I'm really looking forward to that.

Actually the other night I was having dinner in the cafe here at the hotel, and a Japanese woman approached me and asked if she could sit down for a chat. She was telling me about the A-Dome in Hiroshima and I could see she was upset to talk about it. It really touched me that a stranger could open up that way, and it really hit home the impact of such destructive weapons on real people. I used to think of WWII as the war where 'we beat the Nazis and Japanese', but when you meet and connect with someone from the other side, it changes everything.

Following on from that, definitely the highlights of the trip so far have not been the sights, but when one connects with someone despite cultural and linguistical barriers. In Kyoto, I was walking down a random street on my way to a temple, and I saw a tiny little old japanese lady pushing one of those support trolleys and she inched her way along the path. She was the most adorable thing I think I've ever seen, like a female, human version of Yoda from Star Wars. Without thinking about it, I cracked a massive smile, almost a laugh at how cute she was, and her face just lit up, and I think it made each others' days. Uwwwww!!!!

I'm not sure why, but a hell of a lot of the foreigners here seem to be Australian. I actually thought that Aussies would prefer not to visit Japan in what is Winter at the moment, but for some reason almost half of the Whities seem to be Aussies, which is good. Or maybe I just notice them more when I hear the accent.

Apparently it's supposed to snow tomorrow here in Tokyo, so we will see just how bloody cold it gets!

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

The first week

The first week has been full-on. There's been a lot to absorb. I'm still coming to terms with the levels of social hierarchy here - it's pretty evident how service attendants at shops and hotels put themselves below you, which I'm not completely comfortable with to be honest.

I left Osaka on Monday the 19th, and took the train to Kyoto. As soon as I stepped out of the station there I was in a completely different place. It's really beautiful. The city itself is bordered by mountains on three sides, and from all angles there are temples and pagodas carving out their outlines in the distance. I decided to stay in more of an upper class Ryokan, and I was blown away by the level of service. There are traditionally robed attendants everywhere - making sure you have absolutely everything you need. The room itself was really nice. The flooring was traditional Japanese Tatami mats - very high quality and to a certain extent I was nervous that I may accidentally mark them or spill something on them. You have to take off shoes before walking on the floor too - it's a huge deal if you don't respect this custom.

In the morning I was brought Japanese breakfast by a couple of lovely old ladies. Their English was quite poor (and my Japanese is even worse), but they were perfectionists and would even kneel right down and bow their heads to the ground as they closed the door and left the room. The breakfast itself consisted of rice, fish, miso soup, tea, tofu and a few other little salad and dressing type dishes. Actually, each food had its own special little dish, beautifully decorated - either painted or carved. I even like the coffee better in Japan. Perhaps they use different coffee beans, or maybe I'm just imagining it, but it's really nice - even the hotel coffees!

I had a look at quite a lot of temples and touristy stuff in Kyoto - simply amazing!! Some of the highlights were Sanjusangendo temple, with 1001 Buddhas standing like an army on one side of a long hall, and Kiyumizu-dera temple, a huge big wooden temple sitting on the east side of the mountain range looking down on the city.

At night-time, Geishas (or Geiko as they like to call themselves in Kyoto) wander the streets accompanied by wealthy looking businessmen, or just in ones or twos if they are apprentice Geisha. Some of the seedier streets are lined with girls bars and 'massage' parlours, and the hustlers will try to get you to come as you walk past.

I left Kyoto yesterday and arrived in Tokyo by bullet train, called Shinkansen, which took about 3 hours. Every time you stop at a station you're greeted with some sort of videogame chiming music, and each station seems to have its own chime - pretty cool and funny.

I checked into my hotel in Tokyo and saw an Aussie guy who was staying at the same hotel as me in Osaka. I said gday and we had a few beers and decided to go out on the town with an asian friend he was travelling with. We went by train to Roppongi district, which is full of clubs and bars, but it was raining so there wasn't a huge crowd. The drinks are ridiculously expensive in Japan - sometimes the equivalent of 20 Aussie dollars just for a bottled beer like a Corona. It's so easy to spend too much money, and one needs to be aware of just how much they are handing over when paying for a 1000 yen drink.

Tomorrow I've arranged to go in to ANZ's Tokyo branch for 2 hours and have a look at how they do things in the business world. I'm expecting to get some more shocks and I'll just try to absorb as much as I can.

I'm sure I've forgotten heaps of things, but unfortunately this internet service at the hotel is about $7 an hour so I'll post again in a few days. Yeah?

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Chapter 1

Jan 15-17: Days 1- 3

The actual flight over to Osaka from the Gold Coast was fairly uneventful, apart from one moment where the plane actually nosedived quite violently and without previous turbulence. It scared the absolute shit out of me and there were various womanly screams for that moment where I genuinely thought the engines had failed or something. It was all a bit suspicious actually. The plane recovered within a couple of seconds, just as violently, but no announcement was made at all from the captain, which is unusual because they like to tell you about everything else including the colour of their underwear. I have a feeling he stuffed up for a second or something and didn‘t want to admit it :-).

I was very glad when the flight ended. Kansai Airport sits on a man-made island of compressed concrete and steel on top of the city‘s bay. It‘s about 50 kms from the city and to take a taxi it‘s estimated to cost around $300 with our current exchange rate. In japan, the trains are incredibly organised and run non-stop. They are also relatively cheap compared to the prices of other goods and services in the country. I took a JR train from the airport to my hotel, which is a Ryokan (Japanese-style hostel), and it cost about 1000 yen, or $20 at a rough conversion.

The Japanese people are very interesting. My understanding of the elements that make up their culture is still developing, but they seem to have a mixture of old and new western behaviours and traditional & modern japanese behaviours. As it`s winter at the moment, there are not a lot of foreigners around in Osaka, and people tend to stare at me as I walk around. I almost sense that they`re thinking ``What are you doing here?``, and not in a bad way, but just genuinely wondering why I would come to what most locals believe is a poor man`s version of Tokyo when there`s no cherry blossom. On first appearance the people seem not to want to talk to you, but if you ask them something they will do whatever they can to help. I`m still working this out, but I think they are genuinely friendly people whom try not bother tourists out of politeness, but love to help if called upon.

The language barrier is also really apparent. Although their culture is flooded with western products and advertising, finding someone who has even Okay English is harder than I thought it would be, particular outside of the central area of Osaka. Nonetheless, communicating can be made easier by learning a few of the common phrases and adding some pointing and the like.

Everything is so organised. People on duty for their work are dressed in strict uniform and even the movement and gestures are weel practived. Jay-walking doesn`t occur either. People are very law abiding and there are lots of police on foot and traffic controllers supplementing the traffic lights to ensure compliance. There are bicycles absolute everywhere. People ride them not so much on the roads, but on the footpaths, and park them in masses of bicycle stacks. Most of them wouldn`t be locked or chained, soI get the feeling that thefts just don`t really occur, which would seem to be right when considering the very low level of visible crime.

Speaking of crime, the Yakuza clan was actually established in Osaka and today continues to trade is modern organised crime. I was reading about it and their main streams of income are protitution (a big trade), gambling and corporate extortion. On the first night I arrived, even though I was tired, I wanted to just go for a walk and get some more fresh (and extremely cold) air. My journey of a couple of hours took me, unexpectedly, right through the middle of what I think was a type of hooker district. At first glance, these streets look like typical residential (2 storey) joined japanese apartments, but with lanterns lit outside the front. When you walk past you realise that there`s no front wall on these places! I remember the first time I walked past, I saw an old lady smoking what I thought was by herself out the front. She shouts ``Douzo``, which means ``Please, help yourself`` and beckons you over. Not knowing what she was talking to me for, I walked over thinking she might want a chat. As I saw the full view of the small room she was sitting in, there was a very young girl,probably 18-19, kneeling down in a schoolgirl skirt and top and pigtail, with all her makeup done, and a sweet smile on her face. I quickly realised what was going on, but I had never heard of this particular setup before, so I was quite shocked and walked off after politely declining. As I walked around about 4 blocks worth of these places,I noticed there was one of these little places for probably every third house. My estimate is that there‘d be around 50-100 of these places in the small district. The japanese men drive down the lanes and stop quickly at each place to see if they like what‘s on offer before deciding to stop or keep going. So I‘m pretty sure that on my first night in Japan I walked through a Yakuza-owned hooker district. Yikes!!

Yesterday (day 2) was a pretty big day. I got up about 9 and got ready to go and was out by about 10 am local time (Japan is 2 hours behind Melbourne). I headed up to the north of the main City precinct and got off at Osaka-jokoen Station. This translates to Osaka Castle Station or something. So I headed to the grounds of the castle and I was amazed at the sheer scale of the property as a whole. The perimeter is lined by a deep moat, and the other side of the moat is adorned by massive stone walls. The walls are like something out of a videogame, and very authentic looking. Some of the pieces of stone in the walls weigh over 100 tons and are simply amazingly put together. The castle itself sits on a hill in the rough center of the grounds. It is quite majestic - green, white and gold. Inside the castle is a multi-floored display of the history of the castle, including battles that were fought in various centuries on the site. Very cool.

From the castle I headed to Osaka Museum of History. Self explanatory really,some of the highlights included minature models of the original City site, and these are typically detailed.I also really enjoyed looking at the japanese armour and weaponry on display, although I still hope to see a lot more as I travel the country.

Last night I headed to a bar in the main bar precinct of the city. It is called Zerro Bar and is a popular meeting spot for Gaijin (western foreigners). People are all there for the same thing; to meet others that make them feel less homesick, and I quickly got chatting with an American guy who now lives in Korea but decided to come check out Osaka and Nara for a few days. Then we met some expat Kiwis who were just there looking for a night out, and they took us to a proper club a few blocks down. The club we went to has a dungeon type theme, with little rooms carved out of the stone, where people walk down into them to smoke and drink. Oh yes, smoking is everywhere in the city - much more than in Australian cities, and they are allowed to smoke inside most establishments, including retail shops, train stations and bars. The roof of the dungeon style toilets was about 6 foot high, meaning I had to crouch as I walked along a little walkway and crouch at the urinal.

My new mates were pretty drunk by the time we left at 5 am; much more so than I was. The bar had a 3500 yen cover charge (about 60 bucks) for men, but drinks were free and you could have as much as you wanted to. This included spirits and lolly drinks, so overall it was pretty good value. I walked back to the hotel from the bar and went to bed after that, and slept a lot today.

Today I was pretty tired. I woke up at about midday and went down to the public bath in the hotel. It‘s basically a heated but shallow pool - a big hot bath.It was just me in there, so I just let the heat soak into my sore muscles and relaxed. Very enjoyable.

I also went for another walk and looked at a few buildings, but didn‘t end up going inside the touristy stuff.

Japan is a very cash-based society. I learned quickly not to rely on Mr Credit Card for purchases. You really need to carry around at least 25,000 yen for safety, which is about $500 Australian, because even the hotel that I‘m staying in only accepts cash. This means that I need to go to the ATMs at the big banks or post office and withdraw like that. Doing this is smarter too, because you get a better exchange rate than at the currency exchange shops in airports and trains etc.Travelex, the major currency exchange shop, is a bit of a rip off to be honest, so I won‘t buy any more yen that way. ATM`s are definitely the way to go, but harder to find, so I‘ll just have to carry around a lot of cash.

Ok I‘ve had enough of this blog for now. Hope you enjoyed reading so far. I‘ll probably post again from Kyoto, my next stop, so check back here on probably Tuesday or Wednesday. Cheers. Init.